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Bazaar experience: Trendy menu of Prague Posted
August 2, 2004
By ROBERT SCHWARTZ PRAGUE— The grand city of Prague is graced with more than 1,000 years of history, tradition and culture. Even today, a large portion of its charm lies in its traditional, old world feel.
However, one would not be hard pressed to find more modern, trendy aspects of the Czech capital, especially in the area of fine dining. And, at the top of this list (and almost at the top of Prague), you'll find Bazaar Praha Restaurant. Nestled on the hill just below Prague Castle and on the outskirts of Malá Strana ( Prague's "Little Quarter"), Bazaar is the highlight of Nerudova Street. Surrounded by shops and restaurants designed to cater to both tourists and locals alike, the restaurant is a fine jewel in the crown that is Nerudova. The restaurant was founded by Nils Jebens, owner and founder of the Kampa Group, a chain of like restaurants throughout Prague. He also has a restaurant in Bratislava, Slovakia. Jebens began as a restaurateur in 1994 with Kampa Park, a restaurant dedicated to snappy service and beautiful presentations, and located on the bank of the Charle's River. Kampa Park became a quick success, and Jebens decided to expand. By 2004, Kampa Group Restaurants was the proud owner of Le Monde in Bratislava, and in Prague: Square at Malostranske, Hergetova Cihelna, La Provence, and the highly successful Bazaar. And its success lies in the atmosphere, service and impressive menu. Walking into the atrium from bustling Nerudova Street, one immediatly discovers that this is different from most restaurants in Prague. The dim lighting and charming stone walls of the valted entrance is inviting to all public ranging from street shoppers to restaurant conesuirs. Here, snacks and appetizers are served, making for a pleasant place to take a break from seeing Prague or from the work day. Through the atrium is the elegant, cellar dining room. Walking through the entrance, trendy dance and jazz music can be heard, and the first thing the eye settles on is a low, arched wall decorated from top to bottom with wine corks. Surrounding an elegant, circular bar are 120 seats and candle-lit tables. The arched ceilings and red velvet tapestries create a trendy meets old-world atmosphere. Through an archway at the back of this dining room hides another bar, complete with two elevated beds for an interesting cocktail experience.
The most charming and different aspect of the restaurant, however, lies in its hard to reach rooftop garden. The grueling 69 steps quickly become worth it when the roof is finally in view. The garden also seats 120, and offers a spectacular view of Prague (especially in the lighted evening). The tables are classically set in between pathways, lined with upside-down wine bottles sticking up from the dirt, forming garden walls. In between each table are gorgeous flowers and bushes, and at the corner of the garden lies an interesting addition to any restaurant: a sandbox. Approximately 10 by 20 feet, this area, filled with fine white sand, comes complete with tables and service, making a fun addition to the restaurants already original style; catering to children, or the child in you. As if incredible atmosphere weren't enough, the service is among the best around. Prague is not known for its great restaurant service, so a good experience in that arena is rare.
However, the service here is impeccable. The accommodating hosts and wait staff are not only quick, gracious and efficent, the waiters also speak near impeccable English. The reason for this is in the restaurant's philosophy for one, but also the atmosphere and work environment. "I like it here," testifies Peter, one of Bazaar's waiters. "I've been here for three years, and it's a good job." And what they serve is nothing short of spectacular. Dinner service begins with a complete drink menu. One of the only restaurants in Czech Republic that carries even such fine American Whiskey's as Knob Creek 9 Year, the drink menu also includes a large selection of quality wines. Highlights of the menu include a dazzling scallop appetizer: "The sauce is a delicious fusion of honey-Dijon, cranberries, cauliflower, butter and garlic," attested Kevin Dean, a restaurant patron from Florida. "The scallops melt in my mouth like a Baby-Ruth in a fat kid's pocket on a hot summer day." The entrees range from pasta to duck, and all are garnished with impressive sauces and vegetables.
"It's tastes like what steak should be," said David Eppolito, another restaurant patron, about the beef steak over risotto with red wine sauce. Julie Major, an evening diner from Miami, said of her duck: "Exceptional. Decadent. It's so rich, the sauce is unbelievable." The meal is topped off with an excellent desert menu, the jewel of which is the chocolate fondant with raspberry sorbet. This incredible, light chocolate brownie that becomes thicker and richer towards the center, mixes deliciously with the frozen sorbet, and makes for the perfect end to any meal. "Wow," awards Julie, of the dessert. Situated in a wonderful location, adorned with a great staff, beautiful atmosphere and unforgettable food, Bazaar Praha Restaurant stands out as one of Prague's premeire dining experiences.
Bazaar Praha Restaurant Nerudova 40 On the Web at: http://www.kampagroup.com
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